The Itinerary

Days 1-2:
Fly into Yangon Airport. Settle-in and explore the sights and tastes of the city.

Day 3:
Jump on a long-distance, overnight bus, and make your way south to the coastal city of Myeik.

Days 4-8:
Island hopping around the Mergui Archipelago. Remote beaches and untouched islands galore.

Day 9:
Bus to Dawei. Grab a place to stay and chill in the town for a night.

Days 10-13:
Rent a motorcycle and cruise down the Dawei Peninsula. Enjoy the beaches and ride along the shore.

Day 14:
Bus to Hpa An. Check into the hotel and grab a beer in time for sunset.

Days 15-18:
Exploring the mountains, caves, and farmland of Hpa An.

Day 19:
Bus to Bagan. Bumpy, hot, and long; but worth it for what’s to come.

Days 20-23:
Temple chasing in Bagan. Hot air balloon sunrises, bikes, and an endless sea of temples.

Day 24:
Bus to Lake Inle. Check-in and grab a bite to eat on the waterfront.

Days 25-26:
Boat cruise around the lake. Explore the local culture. Grab some photos of the infamous fishermen.

Days 27-28:
Exploring the city of Mandalay. Catch a better look at how locals live in this fast-paced city.

Days 29-30:
Return to Yangon. Check off some more bucket list items. Fly home.

Days 1-2: Arrival in Yangon

Myanmar's largest city is a great jumping-off point for the adventure ahead. The city is bustling with shops, activities, and great food. The people are motivated by opportunity and you can see the development of the once-sheltered country happening at a rapid pace all around.

If you are flying internationally:
Yangon will most likely be the cheapest and most easily accessible destination to begin the trip.

If you are coming from Thailand:
I would recommend altering the itinerary and going straight to Myeik via land border then working your way up the country from there.

Bogyoke Aung San Market

If shopping is your thing, this place is a haven for local treasures. Hundreds of stalls line the market and surrounding alleyways containing everything from art, sculptures, jewelry, antiquities, and fabrics. Remember that this itinerary will land you back in Yangon at the end of the trip if you see something you want to buy and don’t feel like lugging it around for a month. I spent a few hours here before jumping onto the nearby circular train for a loop around the city. There are a few small shops to get a bite to eat if you are hungry.

Yangon Circular Train

Easily one of the most fascinating experiences of the trip is riding the Yangon Circular Train around the city for a true look at how the locals live. The train is old, slow, and packed with locals commuting to and from work. The doors are wide open allowing you to hang your feet outside and soak in all of the sights afar. This is one of the best ways to get a true glimpse into the culture and day-to-day life of the Burmese people. Be sure to speak with a train operator before getting on to make sure the entire loop is operational. When I went, construction stopped the train about 45 minutes into the loop forcing us to get a taxi back to the downtown area. The full loop will take over 2 hours to complete. On the train, you can find vendors and hawkers selling little things such as water, nuts, and fruit. I’d suggest eating before jumping on.

Shwedagon Pagoda

Upon walking up the steep and lengthy stairway to the Shwedagon Pagoda lies Yangon’s most famous attraction. The 99-meter gold-coated pagoda can be seen all around the city but is best enjoyed from up close. This is a must-visit during your time in the capital. I went about an hour before sunset and stayed well into the night. Sunset from the hill it sits atop is spectacular and the contrast of the pagoda between day and night is striking. Make sure to bring socks and a bag, as shoes are not allowed and you will need to carry them or leave them at the door. After visiting, you can take a short walk to the Sky Bar in the Yangon International Hotel overlooking the pagoda. This is a wonderful place to enjoy a nice dinner and drink an ideal for soaking up more of that luxurious golden pagoda.

Day 3: Bus to Myeik

The longest stretch of the trip- but well worth the sights to come. I took a 22-hour overnight bus. I opted for the slight up-charge to take the VIP bus and it was worth it. Loaded with A/C, comfortable reclining seats, and stops for three meals; this was a great and cheaper alternative to the costly domestic flight from Yangon. I had a surprisingly good sleep and would do it again in a heartbeat. You can also fly straight to Myeik but the flights are sparingly and quite a bit more expensive. The bus I took arrived in Myeik around noon the next day, leaving me plenty of time to check into the hotel and mosey around the city for a little while before sunset. There were not many busses down here, so I would check for tickets at the earliest possible time when you arrive in Yangon. Alternatively, if you are coming from Thailand, you should rearrange the itinerary and begin your Myanmar trip in Myeik by crossing from Thailand via bus at the land border.

Days 4-8: Island Hopping in Myeik

The city of Myeik has no accessible beaches, therefore you will need to book an island hopping tour to appreciate the surrounding Mergui Archipelago. While the city doesn’t offer much to do from an entertainment standpoint, the beaches and water you will see on the island hopping tour are unlike anywhere else on earth. Your trip to Myeik will be unforgettable and must not be passed up. There are a handful of travel companies offering island hopping tours ranging from single-day trips up to 14-day excursions. You can book ahead, but I found it quite easy to book a trip from an agency in the city. I opted for the 3 day, two-night tour using Life Seeing Tours. It was fantastic. They will provide food, tents, and transportation. Just bring a swimsuit and a change of clothes and you are ready to spend a few nights on the islands.

Day 9: Bus to Dawei

Another travel day. This time you will be jumping on a shorter bus ride and heading north to Dawei. The trip takes about 6 hours and tickets can be purchased from one of the travel agencies in Myeik. From what I gathered, there is only one bus per day running this route and it leaves early. Be prepared to wake up around 4 AM and head back to the bus station you arrived at. You should talk with your hotel the night before to book a ride to the bus station that morning.

Days 10-13: Motorcycling the Dawei Peninsula

Dawei is home to some of the most impressive coastlines and beaches in the country. The majority of the beaches are only accessible by motorcycle, however, there are a few small bed-and-breakfast style accommodations at the south end of the peninsula with beach access. I’d suggest staying down there should you not want to travel 2-3 hours a day from the city. You can rent a motorcycle from a few places in the city and ride down to the B&Bs near the beaches to sleep. Doing it this way will allow you a chance to enjoy the remote, lush, and ripe-with-sights motorcycle ride without having to make the journey to the beaches each day.

Grandfather Beach

Surrounded by mountains and bright orange dirt- getting here is a bit complicated. You will need to ride up a very steep and loose hill. I’d recommend arriving near low tide as the beach and shops completely flood around noon making the descent to the beach a wet one. You will need to take off your shoes and walk through knee-deep water to access the beach. This is one of the more popular beaches for locals and was one of the few I went to that actually had people.

Tizit Beach

When we arrived at Tizit beach there was no one but locals present for miles. The sand here is soft and the ocean is clean. This beach will also require a motorcycle to get to but the views coming over the mountain pass to get here make it all worthwhile. The sand is hard enough near the shore to ride on and makes for some unforgettable moments cruising up and down the beach at sunset.

Day 14: Bus to Hpa An

One of the shorter bus rides of this trip, the cost is around 20$ and it will take approximately 5 bumpy hours. There are plenty of hostels and hotels to stay at once you arrive in Hpa An. I booked mine on Hostelworld the night before arriving but you should have no problem checking into one the day of if needed.

Days 15-18: Hpa An: Farmland, Caves, and Mountains

Hpa An offers a stark contrast from the beaches and cities encountered on the trip thus far. The whole area is surrounded by sweeping limestone mountains and lush green farmland. There are a handful of caves and lakes to explore and one of my favorite sunrise hikes of the trip. While I have a few recommendations and must-see locations to share, Hpa An is better suited to explore with no plan in mind. A central theme of this trip… jumping on a motorcycle and riding to your heart's content.

Mount Zwegabin Sunrise Hike

Hiking Mount Zwegabin for sunrise is a must-do during your time here. The mountain is situated a bit outside of town and will take about 40 minutes on a motorcycle. The hike to the top took about 35 minutes at a quick pace so you will need to leave around 4 AM to catch the sunrise (depending on the time of year you visit). The main highlight of the hike is the final ascent of the floating stairs to reach the peak. Get your cameras ready and kick back to enjoy the epic sights.

Kyauk Kalat Pagoda

This is one of those places you visit and are in awe pondering how something like this can exist. Easily one of the strangest rock formations I’ve seen and a great place to catch the sunset. There is a winding staircase leading up the rock to the top of the temple. Plan to spend a couple of hours here.

Saddar Cave

Filled with bats, limestone formations, and statues— this short cave walk will cool you down from the heat. The path through the cave takes around 20 minutes to complete and is rewarded with a beautiful lake at the rear. Grab a drink, chill for a while, and take a small paddle boat through the cave to get back to the entrance.

Day 19: Bus to Bagan

A travel day north. This stretch of the trip is hot, bumpy, and slow. Prepare yourself for the journey and be prepared to spend more time on the bus than previously expected. There are loads of hotels and hostels in Bagan, but I’d recommend booking something in advance as this is a big tourist location. You will need to buy a ticket to enter the area as it is a protected national park, but the bus driver should help you get it sorted before driving into the park.

Days 20-23: Chasing Pagodas in Bagan

Once you have settled into your accommodation in Bagan the best way to cover the vast area is a pedal bike or scooter. All of the scooters for rent here are electric to cut down on noise pollution- a nice retreat from the loud gas guzzlers you will be used to from the first half of this trip. There really isn’t any right or wrong way to experience Bagan. The park is absolutely enormous and there are thousands of pagodas scattered about. Most of them are open to walking around in with a handful allowing roof access (although they are trying to cut down on this). You could spend weeks here and not see all of the pagodas up close and personal. Bagan is split into a new town and an old town— most of the backpacker-friendly hostels are in Old Town. You will find a couple of restaurants but I ended up eating at the hostel or food carts most of my days here. A few of the hostels and hotels have outdoor pools which are great depending on the time of year you visit. I’d throughly recommend just roaming the area freely, but here are a couple of the top pagodas and experiences to do/see during your time in Bagan.

Hot Air Ballooning

The top attraction in Bagan has to be the daily hot air balloon tours. Seems like everyone who does it says it is an absolute must. I opted to watch from the ground as the prices for a tour are quite expensive. If you want to do it, make sure to save a couple of hundred USD for a trip. From those I talked to, you wake up around 4:30 AM and head to the take-off spot. Expect to be home around 9:00 AM.

Sunset Boat Cruise

Make sure to spend at least one of your evenings on a slow cruise down the Ayeyarwady River. It’s a fantastic way to view some of the pagodas from the distance and relax after a long day. There are quite a few companies offering these trips and they cost next to nothing. Our boat provided snacks, drinks, and alcohol. The trips are anywhere from half an hour to two hours. Book with your hotel.

The Big Three Temples

While there are well over a thousand pagodas to explore in Bagan, three main structures are revered by locals. These include Shwesandaw, Thatbyinnyu, and Shwezigon. You should absolutely make time to check out these three during your trip, although you will probably run into them without even trying.

Day 24: Bus to Kalaw

Long-distance busses run the route several times per day, with the most popular being the overnight option. Check with a travel agent in Bagan to book tickets before heading to the bus stop.

Day 25-26: Relaxing at Lake Inle

Days 25 and 26 take us to the beautiful Lake Inle just outside of the city of Kalaw. I was unfortunately not to be able to make it on this trip but everyone I spoke to said not to miss Inle. Thanks to my friend Toby for the beautiful pictures.

Day 27-28: Mandalay City

Mandalay is a fast-paced city with less tourism than other parts of the country. It is a fascinating glimpse into the daily lives of the Burmese without all the tourists found in Yangon. There are a few culturally significant monasteries and temples within the city limits to explore as well as some cool markets for shopping around. Mandalay Hill is a great place to take a brisk hike and enjoy the sunset one of your nights. You could also visit the Mandalay Marionettes Theater to catch a local show highlighting some of the history and culture of Myanmar. As for me, I honestly just roamed around the city and explored without any real destinations in mind. Considering this is the last stop of the trip and the city needed to get back to Yangon, you may not be super interested in it but there are certainly some cool spots to see.

Day 29-30: Return to Yangon

The final two days of the trip are a return to where everything started. The bus from Mandalay to Yangon will take about HOURS. Alternatively, Mandalay has a pretty large international airport that you could fly out of depending on your next destination. Should you return to Yangon, you will have plenty of time to get back to the market and pick up any final souvenirs or trinkets you may want to bring home with you. Enjoy these last couple of days, find some good food, and reflect on the month you have experienced.

Update: Unfortunately as of this time (June 2021) Myanmar is experiencing major political and civil unrest. Taken from the advice of friends on the ground there— I can not recommend traveling to Myanmar at the time of writing. Pray for Myanmar!

Update 2: The political situation in Myanmar has escalated (July 2022). Travel is still not recommended.

Originally Published June 15, 2021.
Intended to be viewed at habla.news/u/hes@nostrplebs.com/1705281328058

Think again, because southern Myanmar is home to some of the most stunning and untouched beaches in all of southeast Asia. While these beaches certainly rival that of Thailand, the Maldives, and Hawaii — lack of infrastructure and tourism to the area have made them quite difficult to find if you don't know what to look for.

I spent the time getting lost, asking for help, and wandering for hours so you wouldn't have to. Google Maps is hardly reliable in these small, remote villages, so buckle up and get ready to explore the best of southern Myanmar. Here’s a look at my top three, hidden beaches in southern Myanmar; and why you should reconsider that trip to Thailand in favor of the lesser-traveled, Myanmar.

#3 Tizit Beach: A Sanctuary Shrouded by Mountains

Tizit Beach is located about one hour south of the city of Dawei. Getting here is quite a challenge and not recommended for the faint of heart.

The roads are dangerous, unlit, and sandy; only make the trip if you are confident on a motorbike and double-check to make sure the bike is in proper condition with working brakes. As a reward for your troubles, expect to see very few, if any, tourists at Tizit Beach. The only people we saw here were a few local children and fisherman off the shore. You will need to rent a motorcycle and traverse across a pretty steep mountain pass to get to Tizit Beach. Expect the journey to take about an hour in each direction.

Directions:

Begin by crossing over the water to the west of Dawei and taking a left heading south towards Nyinmaw. As you are riding down the peninsula from Dawei there is really only one main road to follow. Stay on the road for about 30 minutes keeping an eye on the right side for a small sign marking Tizit Beach.

You will likely miss the sign on the first pass through as I did. Pay attention to your GPS and note that if you have passed Nyinmaw, you have traveled too far. After locating the Tizit Beach sign you will notice a school playground and a road leading toward the mountains. Take the right turn and continue over the mountain for about 20 minutes:

At the bottom of the mountian pass you will come to a fork in the road with unclear directions. Going left will lead into a small cemetery and dead end. The road left looks like this:

You want to head right at the fork, which will take you through a small residential area to the waterfront. As with many of the beaches in the area, there will be substantial flooding in the morning. Coming after 15:00 is probably best. As you arrive, expect to be greeted with panoramic views of the lush mountains, a vast delta plain, and crystal blue water:

The sand on Tizit is a brownish-orange color that appears to morph into a deep red around sunset. It is soft and clean. The beach is much wider than others in the area, allowing you more flexibility to set up camp away from the tide. In the ocean, the water is warm enough for a swim and the current was nothing to worry about for an experienced swimmer. There are no lifeguards, so obviously swim at your own risk.

A handful of wooden fishing vessels were docked off the coast and the locals were super friendly to us:

One of the best parts of Tizit Beach is a sunset cruise along the water. The sand will harden up near the shore and you can bring a motorcycle down to ride on it. This was surely my best memory over the thirty days I spent in Myanmar.

Sunsets on Tizit are epic. The whole place turns red. Don’t stay too late because the mountain pass is not lit and the ride home in the dark is definitely sketchy. If you do hang around until sunset, I would urge you to be prepared to leave immediately after the sun drops and make sure the lights on your motorcycle are working.

#2- Grandfather Beach: Popular, but Plentiful

Number two on my list is one of the more striking in Dawei. It is quite popular with locals, but large enough to not be overcrowded.

Grandfather Beach is another hard find, but worth the trouble once you do make it. Getting here requires about 3 hours each direction on a motorcycle from the city of Dawei; assuming you stop to take some photos and eat along the way.

Directions:

To get to Grandfather Beach, head south on the main drag from Dawei all the way down the peninsula for several hours. It is a long and winding journey through the jungle. At some point the road will cut across the peninsula and run parallel to the coastline. Once you get to the top of a hill and can finally spot the ocean you are close. You are looking for a small town called Kyauk Wap Pyin at the bottom of the hill:

Once you find the town, take a right heading from the east side of the land to the west. Continue on a small road through the town for about twenty minutes until arriving at the fishing village on the west coast pictured below:

From the small fishing village above, it's on you to find the orange-dirt road leading to the beach. It’s steep, slick, and pretty crazy to ride over. I had a lot of fun with it. The road to the beach is on the right side of the town if you are looking at the sea from the village. Grandfather Beach is no stranger to daytime flooding. If you arrive past noon expect to get waist-deep in water, crossing from the parking area to the beach. You will only be able to ride on the beach in the early morning.

The flooding is not all that bad, though. The restaurants are well acclimated to the rising water levels and have situated themselves accordingly. There are also a few swings set up on the beach at the perfect height above the water. The sand at Grandfather Beach was the softest of any of the three mentioned in this article. It is a fairly popular spot for locals, so don’t expect a completely empty beach. As a result, it wasn't nearly as clean as Tizit, and it is also quite a bit narrower.

If you don't have a place to stay the night near Grandfather Beach, watching the sunset is unobtainable (unless you take the risk of a long and dark ride back to the city. I would urge against it). Grandfather Beach certainly has the most infrastructure, which means you will have plenty of options for places to eat and drink. Plan to make an entire day out of your trip to Grandfather to get the most from the experience.

#1- The Mergui Archipelago: An Unexplored Haven

This will come as no surprise for anyone who has been to Myeik. The hundreds of remote islands in the Mergui Archipelago take the cake when it comes to beaches in the region.

Had my spontaneity from going to Yangon with no plans, and browsing a satellite map for cool areas not happened, I would have never stumbled upon the magnificence of the Mergui Archipelago. Hardly any information exists on the web and tourism in the area is extremely limited. While many of the islands are completely off-limits, quite a few of them have wonderful private beaches to take advantage of.

Realizing that many of the people I spoke to during my month in Myanmar had no idea this type of scenery existed in Myanmar; I feel an obligation to spread the word and encourage others to see it for themselves. The best way to visit is by taking an island-hopping tour from the city of Myeik. The tours range in price and length, but expect to spend a couple of hundred dollars for a 2-3 day tour, all the way up to thousands of dollars for week-long yacht expeditions. It seemed pretty standard that food, a tent, and drinks are provided in the booking fees; but always double-check with the agency you book with.

During my five days, I came across only three foreign tourists. The guide told me many of the islands we visited have only ever been seen by hundreds of foreigners at most. The area is so secluded and undocumented that it was even unknown to several of the Burmese friends I made over my travels. At times I felt a little intrusive considering how little tourism comes through the area. At one of the islands we visited, we got to interact with a group of settlers who are 100% dependent on the sea, don't use electricity, and cannot even communicate with the Burmese tour guides. Despite my reservations, you could feel a genuine connection. Though we were on their island, they were welcoming, friendly, and happy to interact with us. Back in the city, the locals I talked to were happy to see outsiders enjoying their hometown. They were glad others could come and appreciate this little hidden gem on earth.

I ended up camping on an island for a couple of nights and the only other person on the island with me one night was the island caretaker and his ten puppies. Each day, a small boat would take us to several of the surrounding islands for swimming, beach time, and snorkeling before returning back to the campsite. If you are SCUBA certified this is a fantastic area for diving; as it is home to several impressive coral reefs and marine species.

The whole experience of island hopping down south is quite surreal. Knowing this is one of the few places on earth that has not really been explored gives you a really unique feeling out there in the middle of the sea. I can absolutely say this should be the top priority on your next trip to Asia.

Conclusion

Myanmar truly is a remarkable country, plagued with an unfortunate history. The people I met were some of the friendliest and most optimistic in the world; regardless of the hands they’ve been dealt. While this guide covers some wonderful beaches; and I guarantee you will have a great time traveling the country— my main goal is that everyone who visits Myanmar will sit down and connect with the locals on a deeper level. They have some remarkable stories and I have made friends for life.

Enjoy the trip.
— Hes

Originally published May 7, 2021 at connorhesen.net